Grower Talks Articles

How do I prune my Hydrangea?

By: Melissa Netzer

Landscape Designer

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Hydrangeas are generally low maintenance shrubs. Each year it is recommended that you at least prune out dead old branches and that old blooms get removed. Removing old blooms is called “deadheading”. If you wish to cut blooms for arrangements, you can cut the blooms with a long stem in June or July as the plant has not yet set the next seasons buds. When you cut blooms after August 1^st, it is safest to remove them with short stems so you don’t disturb developing blooms for next year.

Beyond deadheading and old stem removal, there are basically 2 methods of pruning. Method 1 is for Hydrangea types that bloom on OLD wood. Oak leaf and mop head Hydrangeas (Endless Summers are in this category). Method 2 is for Hydrangeas that bloom on NEW wood. Hydrangea paniculatas (Limelights, PeeGees, etc) and Hydrangea arborescens (Annabelles).

Method 1: Prune these hydrangeas in the summer before August. Generally a shaping is all that is needed. Keep in mind that if you take off a lot of stem, you will lose some of this year’s blossoms. Some experts believe you can prune into the beginning of August, but many varieties of Hydrangea may have already set their blooms for next season.

Method 2: Prune these hydrangeas in the fall/early winter. Many people prune their Annabelle Hydrangea down to just a few inches above ground so they are not an eyesore over winter. They still bloom beautifully the next season, and maintain a good shape. It is important to note that Hydrangea paniculatas do not need to be pruned every year. It is suggested that crossing branches be trimmed out though, to maintain a nice form. Hydrangea paniculatas can also be pruned into a tree-form. A strong leader is needed to create this look, and the top main branches should not be removed.

This is your last chance to come in and get your fall trees and shrubs for plantings! Bloch’s Farm last day open for the Season is on Saturday, October 31^st. Come on Halloween and purchase your pumpkins and gourds for your Halloween and fall decorating. Thank you everyone for another successful year at Bloch’s Farm. Stay tuned for more articles throughout the winter months. Happy Fall! If you have any questions or concerns about your gardens or landscapes, please email info@blochsfarm.com and check out our website, www.blochsfarm.com 920.294.6000. Our offices are open throughout the winter months and we design landscapes throughout the winter. Having your landscape designed in the winter months assures you a timely design so that when spring hits, you are ready!

Hydrangeas

By: Melissa Netzer

Landscape Designer

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

In Wisconsin, Hydrangeas are still thought of as a special treat; a splurge we allow ourselves only for a special occasion. They look so rich, so elegant, that many of us think they may not be hardy in our planting zone 4.

Once thought of as hardy only in warmer southern climates, Hydrangeas have made their way north into the Mid-west. Actually, some varieties have been here all along, but have just recently gained popularity. Many Hydrangeas are low maintenance and quite durable. Some beautiful, hardy varieties to consider planting are:

Hydrangea quercifolia , or Oakleaf Hydrangea, is a native to the Eastern United States and does quite well in sunny and shady areas in our area. Besides the beautiful blooms, this plant produces leaves the shape of Red Oak leaves that turn purple-red in fall.

Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, or Annabelle Smooth Hydrangea is becoming a popular choice for shady areas. It’s the perfect size for along a foundation or to compliment shade perennials in a garden bed. This Hydrangea is tough and dependable and produces white “snowball” flowers mid-summer that can be cut and dried for arrangements.

Hydrangea paniculata varieties such as PeeGee, Compact PeeGee, Pink Diamond , Limelight, and Quick Fire are all very nice choices. These varieties offer hardiness, beautiful appearance and a range of color from lime green to hot pink to jazz up the late summer landscape. All of these varieties like more sun and will need sufficient moisture to be at their best.

Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ Endless Summer Hydrangea has stolen the spotlight in recent years as a hardy, colorful bloomer. It likes full sun to part shade and blooms pink in alkaline soils, blue in acidic soils. It’s the hardiest of the H. macrophylla’s to date and has performed well in landscapes in SE Wisconsin. New varieties closely related to Endless Summer include ‘Blushing Bride’ which likes more shade, and ‘Twist and Shout’ which offers different color variations.

For more information regarding Hydrangeas or if you are interested in having a landscape design drawn for you, please contact Melissa at melissa@blochsfarm.com or 920-924-6000 ext. 13.

Fall Bulbs have ARRIVED!

By: Ashley Henke
Head Horticulturalist
Bloch's Farm, Green Lake, WI
Nothing is more satisfying than planting dormant brown bulbs in fall and seeing them emerge in late winter or early spring with fresh green shoots and A beautiful rainbow of colors of flowers red, blue, & yellow flowers. There are many different varieties of spring and summer flowering bulbs that need to be planted during the fall. This will give you color from January through June depending on the variety of bulbs you plant. Bulbs have different bloom times, therefore you could have them blooming as early as January through the middle of summer.
Spring bulbs should be planted before the ground freezes and while bulbs are still firm and dormant. Planting in September through November is best. In general, bulbs should be planted in sunny areas. There are some bulbs that will take partial shade. ONE TRICK WE HAVE LEARNED OVER THE YEARS IS TO LOOK UP! LOOK UP IN THE AREA THAT YOU ARE PLANTING YOUR BULBS IN. IF THERE IS A HEAVY GREEN TREE ABOVE YOU PROVIDING SUMMER AND FALL SHADE, KEEP IN MIND THAT IN SPRING THE LEAVES WILL NOT BE FULLY DEVELOPED YET AND THIS COULD BE A SUNNY SPOT SAFE TO PLANT YOUR BULBS IN! Bulbs grow best in most soil as long as it has good drainage.
When planting Bulbs it is very important to plant them at the appropriate depts. The rule of thumb is you should dig the hole the same size and height of the bulb. Refer to the package or tear-off tag for variety specific information.
            There are many different types of bulbs to plant. Bloch's Farm has a wide selection of bulbs for your home gardening needs. We carry a wide variety of spring to summer flowering bulbs. There are also some special blends that are prepackaged for ease of planning. For further information on bulbs, stop by Bloch's Farm and talk with our knowledgeable sales staff.
      Bloch's Farm Market has lots of fresh fall produce available. The Farm Market also features many beautiful seasonal decors to decorate for Fall, such as gourds, pumpkins, straw bales and corn stalks. We have also planted some amazing fall centerpieces and container art for your festivities. Check out our website for all availability and unadvertised specials, www.blochsfarm.com.
                        Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com

HARDY GARDEN MUMS

By Ashley Henke

You can create a display of color in the middle of a large grassy area or use mums (chrysanthemum) outline a walkway. Highlighting a shrub foundation by planting mums in front for a mass of color is always beautiful. Garden mums can be planted in an outdoor container for use as an accent. One of the most successful uses of mums is in a perennial garden where summer flowers offer color while chrysanthemum leaves provide a fine green texture before they have their turn to flower.

Garden mums can be planted in the fall, but earlier is better for winter survival. Garden mums need full sun to perform nicely. Planting them in shady locations will produce weak growth.

In the summer when new shoots are four to six inches long, the top 1/2” to 1” growth should be pinched off or cut cleanly with garden shears. This encourages branching and makes the plants shorter, fuller and

stronger. The best part is that pinching them back makes more flowers. You are not hurting the plant. They may be pinched back up until the end of July.

WILL GARDEN MUMS COME BACK NEXT YEAR?

A garden mum is generally tough enough to survive the winter. Like roses, winter survival is not guaranteed. Greater variations in winter conditions make the mums more susceptible to winter kill. Severe freezing and thawing is more likely to kill a garden mum than continually frozen ground. Mulch can help insulate the roots, and gives you the best survival rate. When mums are done blooming in the fall, do not cut them back; they stand a better chance of surviving the winter if not pruned. Once the soil freezes, apply hay or mulch. When spring arrives, gradually remove the mulch from around the plants. It is important to remove the mulch as plants can smother once the weather warms.

Bloch’s Farm Market has lots of fresh fall produce available. The Farm Market also features many beautiful seasonal decors to decorate for Fall, such as gourds, pumpkins, straw bales and corn stalks. We have also planted some amazing fall centerpieces and container art for your festivities. Check out our website for all availability and unadvertised specials, www.blochsfarm.com. If you have any further questions or concerns please email me at ashley@blochsfarm.com.

I’ve learned everything about gardening by trowel and error. ---unknown

Top Natives to Support Biodiversity

By: Melissa Netzer, Lead Landscape Designer,

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Biodiversity (short for ‘biological diversity’) describes the whole variety of life on Earth including plants, animals, fungi and bacteria. It can also include the habitats in which these life forms live. Knowledge of and respect for these life forms is important because they contribute, at every level, to the balance of local and global ecosystems.

Biodiversity is important to people as well as wildlife. The health of our environment is fundamental to our well-being and quality of life. Basic needs such as fresh water, clean air, and fertile soil stem from a diverse natural world.

All of us can make a difference on this front. When we have the opportunity to add plant material to our landscape, we can keep in mind the importance of biodiversity and install trees, shrubs and perennials that help support diversity in our own backyards. Using native plants furthers the health of our environment while increasing the odds that the plants will thrive with little or no maintenance.

Here is a list of native trees, shrubs and perennials native to Wisconsin that will support the most biodiversity:

Trees/Shrubs (botanical names):

Quercus , Prunus, Salix, Betula, Populus, Malus, Vaccinum, Acer, Ulmus and Pinus

Perennials (botanical names):

Solidago, Aster, Eupatorium, Ipomoea, Carex, Lonicera, Viola, Geranium, and Rudbeckia

Call Bloch’s Farm for more information and ideas on how to incorporate these important plants into your landscape.

Beautiful Fall Grasses

(Grower Talk)

By: Ashley Henke

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Did you know that the grass family – Poaceae – is found worldwide and contains about 9,000 species. Grasses are used all over the world for a variety of different reasons. Most people use grass as a lawn for landscape while others use it as a playground for their children. But when you ask you neighbor who is the avid gardener, about grasses, the first thing that comes to their mind in ornamental grasses.

There are annual ornamental grasses that are not hardy to our zone (zone 4), while there are also perennial ornamental grasses that are hardy and will come back year after year. I’m going to focus on the perennial grasses. These are the grasses that you see right now in full bloom.

Panicum virgatum ‘Heavy Metal’ is strictly upright grass that is Blue toned. The stems are very strong that never lean or flop even during heavy rains. This grass reaches five feet tall in bloom. The inflorescences have pink tones that are very beautiful during the fall.

Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ is one of the most popular grasses on the market today. This is a red switch grass. This is a very unique grass for it’s burgundy fall color. The leaves are green in early summer, taking on dark red tones in early July and fully turning by September. This grass stands 4 feet tall.

Miscanthus sinensis ‘Graziella’ leaves are narrow and green. The silver blooms are peak in August through Early September. These inflorescences are very fluffy in appearance and reach seven feet tall. Graziella is an upright grass with fall foliage a rich copper red and orange. This is a beautiful grass that is refined.

The above grasses are just a few of my favorites. Remember there are over 9.000 species of grasses around the world. Way to many to write about. Bloch’s Farm has a wide variety of these fall blooming beauties. They are available in one gallon containers as well as three gallon. Right now is the perfect time to add some seasonal interest to your landscape. For further information on grasses, stop by Bloch’s Farm and talk with one of our retail staff members.

Bloch’s Farm Market is in full swing! We have a large selection of locally grown produce freshly picked and organically grown. Visit our website for availability as well as unadvertised specials. www.blochsfarm.com Order your Michigan Peaches and Blueberries by emailing me or calling 920-294-6000

Have a topic that you want to know more about?

Email ashley@blochsfarm.com

Need Fall Color?
By: Ashley Henke

Heuchera, also known as Coral Bells, is a great fall perennial that shows vivid color. Heuchera is available in many different colors. Most of these plants perform best in shade or part shade. Heuchera's are good perennials for borders and containers. They are often grown for their foliage as well as their flowers. The leaves are very attractive and the flowers come up on slender yet strong stems, which have airy racemes of small bell shaped flowers. Flower colors are white, light pink and dark. The Heuchera is a great attracter for butterflies and hummingbirds.
Here is my list of Heuchera that are awesome for fall plantings.

Heuchera ‘Obsidian’; This plant is stunning. The leaves are black and shiny with rounded edges. It has a compact habit making it exceptional in masses in the garden or used in a mixed container. It's a great performer which holds its color all season.
Heuchera ‘Black Out’; Large midnight-black leaves have a rounded lobed shape and are glossy. They appear dense and layered to make a neat mound and have small creamy flowers during summer.
Heuchera ‘Black Beauty’; One of the darkest, glossy ruffled leaves with tall creamy white flower spikes. This plant flowers in the summer.
Heuchera ‘ Caramel’; Excellent strong grower, with wonderful golden caramel leaves that have red undersides. Produces many cream flowers over the tidy full foliage on tall slender stems.
Heuchera ‘Melting Fire’; Watch a volcano in your own yard as Melting Fire erupts in your garden! The heavily ruffled foliage emerges from the center of the plant as bright red and then matures to deep maroon. Flowers May to June. Grows in a uniform habit and can be grown in full sun to full shade.
Stop on by and check out our beautiful display of Heuchera ‘Coral Bells’ and our blooming selection of fall mums.
If you have any other questions about Heuchera, please stop by the farm and talk to me or email me ashley@blochsfarm.com
Bloch’s Farm Market is in full swing! We have a large selection of locally grown produce freshly picked and organically grown. Visit our website for availability as well as unadvertised specials. www.blochsfarm.com Order your Michigan Peaches and Blueberries by emailing me or calling 920-294-6000.

Making Wise Choices

By: Marie Murphy

Every gardener wants to have a prosperous crop. Having good soil and proper watering and fertilization practices are a big step in the right direction. Before that comes another very important and often daunting first step, choosing the right plant varieties. In 2010, gardeners will have access to new tomato varieties that resist some of the most threatening tomato diseases and can be grown in ways that are gentler to the environment. The tomatoes listed below are some old tried and true resistant varieties.

The most common tomato diseases include early and late blight, verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, tobacco mosaic virus, catface, blossom-end rot, septoria leaf spot, and anthracnose. The initials after the variety name indicate kinds of resistance, most varieties are resistant to more than one strain of disease.

V= verticillium wilt, F=fusarium wilt, T= tobacco mosaic virus, A= alternaria or early blight, Cld= cold tolerant, H= heat tolerant, C= catface resistant

Large Red Varieties Pear Tomato Varieties

‘Celebrity’ VFTA ‘Classica’ VFA, blossom-end rot

‘Early Girl’ VF ‘Viva Italia’ VFA, bacterial spot resistant

‘Early Pick’ VFCld

‘Floramerica’ VFAC

‘Hawaiian’ VFTH

‘Mountain Spring’ VF, resistant to cracking and blossom-end rot

Small-fruited Varieties Yellow Varieties

‘Sweet Chelsea’ VFT, resists 15 diff. diseases ‘Lemon Boy’ VF

‘Sweet Million’ FT, crack tolerant ‘Mountain Gold’ VF, crack resistant

Keep a record of what varieties worked the best in your garden this year, and then visit Bloch’s Farm next spring to get your tried and true and also some new tomato varieties.

Bloch’s Farmers Market is in full swing. We have a large selection of locally grown produce freshly picked and organically grown. Stop by and check out the wide selection and visit our website at www.blochsfarm.com Sweet Corn is now available! Order your Michigan Peaches and Blueberries today by emailing us or calling 920-294-6000.

NEW – Mildew Resistant Phlox

By: Ashley Henke

A new and improved Phlox! The Candy Store Phlox series is an excellent new upright phlox that is disease resistant. This new series of phlox adds amazing color and sweet fragrance to the garden. There are four colors in the series that look great together but also pair well with other plants. They’re also great for attracting hummingbirds and butterflies, too.

I would recommend for you to try this phlox, it is the best mildew resistant phlox to date, and it has a long bloom time. The Candy Store series was introduced this spring and is selling rapidly. It grows best in full sun and moist well-drained soil. It reaches 22 inches tall and two feet wide. Some good companion plants are coreopsis, purple coneflower, or other long blooming perennials. The four varieties of Phlox in this series are; Grape Lollipop, Bubblegum pink, Cotton Candy, and Coral Crème Drop. We carry 3 of these varieties at Bloch’s Farm. For additional information on the Candy Store Phlox visit www.novalis.com or email me ashley@blochsfarm.com.

Bloch’s Farmers Market is in full swing. We have a large selection of locally grown produce freshly picked and organically grown. Stop by and check out the wide selection and visit our website at www.blochsfarm.com Sweet Corn is now available! Order your Michigan Peaches and Blueberries today by emailing us or calling 920-294-6000.

The more one gardens, the more one learns; the more one realizes how little one knows. Vita Sackville-West

What is the difference between morning sun and afternoon sun?

By: Ashley Henke

Does it make sense that you can get sunburn on a cloudy day? Most of us know the answer to that is yes! We understand that the suns rays can penetrate through the clouds. Understanding the sun’s exposure is an important aspect in gardening. It is easier for humans to get sunburn in the hot afternoon than in the morning, and the same holds true for plants. Morning sun is much weaker in intensity than afternoon sun. Even though part shade is technically defined as 4-6 hours of direct sunlight, there is a huge difference between 4-6 hours of afternoon sun verses 4-6 hours of morning sun

As a general rule, plants that require full shade to part shade need to be planted where they will have exposure only to morning sun or where they will receive no direct sunlight at all.

Plants that require full sun need to be planted where they will receive an absolute minimum of 6 hours of direct afternoon sun, preferably much more.

Most gardeners confuse part sun and part shade. A plant exposed to hot afternoon sun instead of morning light can literally be the difference between life and death for a plant. As humans sunburn, so can plants. It is imperative that you read and understand your plant labels thoroughly so as to provide the best conditions possible for that plant.
When plants are planted in improper lighting/sun conditions, they will let you know if you look closely at them. Some plants will stretch their stems and lean towards the direction the sun is coming from because they are not getting enough sun. Others will not grow to their mature height. Many plants will reduce their flower production or will not flower at all. Some plants will just give up and die completely. Listen to your plants – they will tell you what they need!

Bloch’s Farmers Market is in full swing. We have a large selection of, Kohlrabi, green peppers, beets, zucchini, cucumbers, dill, peas, cabbage, broccoli, and onions. All produce is freshly picked and organically grown. Stop by and check out the selection. Sweet Corn will soon become available!

My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant’s point of view. –H. Fred Ale

Cucumber Egg Salad

By: Ashley Henke

Bloch’s Farm

It’s the middle of July, therefore the cucumbers are in abundance. I love to eat fresh cucumbers from the garden, but am always looking for new recipes to add to my collection. Here is a great egg salad recipe with cucumbers and pickles added. It is a nice twist to the original egg salad. Also helps with those “can’t get enough” pickle cravings!

INGREDIENTS

4 hard boiled eggs
4 small seedless cucumbers
4 small dill pickles
3-4 tablespoons mayonnaise

DIRECTIONS

Chop eggs into eighths, and place in a medium salad bowl.
Cube or slice cucumbers and dill pickles, and add to eggs. Mix in mayonnaise. Salt & Pepper to taste.
Refrigerate for several hours or over night.
Serve with crackers or as sandwiches.

Try this simple recipe and let me know what you think. Email me at ashley@blochsfarm.com . The Farmer’s Market at Bloch’s Farm is in full swing, we have a wide variety of seasonal organic produce; including cucumbers, red potatoes, dill, zucchini, lettuce, beets, peas, onions, kohlrabi, and broccoli. We will also be selling farm fresh eggs! Stop on by and check out the freshly picked selection located in our Potter’s Shed.

A Strawberry Surprise

By: Ashley Henke

Strawberries, strawberries, tis the strawberry season! Here is an easy and very good recipe to try with your fresh strawberries.

Ingredients:

· 2 cups crushed hard pretzels

· 3/4 cup melted butter or margarine

· 3 tablespoons sugar

· 1 package (8 oz) cream cheese

· 2 cups whipped cream or whipped topping

· 1 package (6 oz) strawberry gelatin

· 1 carton (10 oz) fresh strawberries

· 2 cups boiling water

· 1 cup sugar or sugar substitute

Preparation: Mix together the crushed pretzels, butter or margarine, and 3 tablespoons of sugar. Put into a 9 x 13-inch baking dish; bake at 400° for 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool. Mix together the cream cheese, 1 cup sugar, and whipped topping. Layer over pretzel mix. Mix gelatin into boiling water, then add strawberries. Let cool in refrigerator for about 5 minutes or until it starts to gel up. Spoon over cream cheese mixture. Garnish with fresh strawberries. Serves 10 to 12. This recipe is provided by www.about.com.

Bloch’s Farm now has fresh produce in our Farmer’s Market located in our Barn Shop. We have a variety of always fresh picked produce ranging from green onions, beets, head lettuce, kohlrabi, and strawberries. Enjoy a chai tea, French patisserie, or a chilled glass of wine as you shop the farm market.

Do you have questions about your plants, gardens, or landscapes? Please email me at ashley@blochsfarm.com and I will answer your questions promptly. Check out our website www.blochsfarm.com for sales and unadvertised specials as well as a list of all our Saturday Seminars. See you soon at the Farm!

Hummingbird Gardens

By: Ashley Henke

A good hummingbird garden takes more than just flowers for the hummingbirds.

Aside from the nectar filled flowers which you will grow, a good hummingbird garden must also consist of an entire habitat for the birds. Make certain that there is always fresh water available for drinking as well as for bathing. Create both sun and shade areas in your hummingbird garden. Hummingbirds need a place in shade to perch as well as to build their nests. Willows trees provide nesting materials which your hummingbirds will use, along with bits of leaves, spider webs, moss, and lichens to build their tiny nests.

Hummingbirds must feed 3-5 times per hour and your hummingbirds may become reliant on your garden for it's food, but there may be periods when there are no blossoms from which they can get nectar. It is a good idea to provide hummingbird feeders hung about thirty feet apart throughout your garden for these times. The best color for a feeder is bright red to attract the birds from a distance. Never fill your feeders with anything but sugar-water mix of 1 part sugar to 4 parts water. Do not use food coloring of any kind, and never, never use honey. (Honey can develop a fungus which can be fatal to hummingbirds) Always keep your feeders clean and filled!

Keep in mind that hummingbirds are attracted to flower colors and nectar, not fragrance. Some cultivated hybrids produce less nectar than their wild counterparts, but they still make excellent additions to your hummingbird garden.

Here is a list of perennials that attract hummingbirds; Bee balm Monarda didyma, Butterfly weed Ascelpias tuberosa, Cardinal flower Lobelia cardinalis, Columbine Aquilegia sp., Coral bells Heuchera sanguinea, Delphinium Delphinium elatum, Foxglove Digitalis purpurea (Biennial), Fuchsia Fuschia hybrida, Geranium Pelargonium species, Hollyhock Althea rosea (biennial), Lupine Lupinus hybrids, Monkeyflower Mimulus hybridus, Penstemon Penstemon sp., Speedwell Veronica hybrids, Verbena Verbena sp.

Here is a list of annuals that attract hummingbirds; Calibracha Million Bells, Four-o'-clock Mirabilis jalapa, Flowering tobacco Nicotiana alata, Nasturtium Tropaeolum majus, Petunia Petunia hybrida, Spider flower Cleome hassle Ana, Zinnia Zinnia sp.

Hope this list helps you attract hummingbirds to your garden. If you have any further questions on Hummingbird Gardens or anything else, please feel free to email me at ashley@blochsfarm.com. This weekend at Bloch’s Farm we will be having a presentation on Groundcovers for sun or shade. Guest Speaker, Brent, will inform you of the new and interesting plants which are available through the Jeepers Creepers Groundcover line. The presentation will take place on Saturday at 10:00 AM. Please call or email us to reserve a seat. This presentation is free of charge and there will be fresh bakery and coffee available for purchase. Check out our website for specials and unadvertised savings, www.blochsfarm.com 920-294-6000.

2008 Perennial Plant of the Year

Geranium ‘Rozanne’

Provided by: Ashley Henke, Head Horticulturalist,

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

The Perennial Plant Association has awarded the title of Perennial Plant of the Year® to Geranium ‘Rozanne’. Donald and Rozanne Waterer discovered this strong performing hardy geranium in their garden in Somerset, England in 1989. It has 2 ½ inch, iridescent violet-blue, saucer-shaped flowers with purple-violet veins and radiant white centers. Bloom time is from late spring to mid fall.

· Hardiness – USDA Zones 5 to 8

· Size – 20 to 24 inches tall and 24 to 28 inches wide

· Light – Best in full sun to partial shade, afternoon shade is advisable in hot climates

· Soil – Prefers moist, well-drained soil

· Uses - Geranium ‘Rozanne’ may be used as a dynamic ground cover or as an attractive specimen plant. It is a good companion plant to Shasta daisy, perennial salvia, speedwell, hostas, and short ornamental grasses. Rozanne’s energetic habit makes it a worthy tenant of patio containers, window boxes, and hanging baskets.

· Unique Qualities – The large violet-blue flowers with purple-violet veins and small white centers offer non-stop flowering through the growing season. It has one of the longest flowering periods of any of the hardy geraniums.

The perennial plant of the year is chosen by these components;

Suitable for a wide range of climatic conditions
Low maintenance
Pest and disease resistant
Readily available in the year of release
Multiple season of ornamental interest
Easily propagated by asexual or seed propagation

This information was suggested through the Perennial Plant Association Website. www.perennialplant.org

What do you want to learn about?

Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and she may pick your topic for the next article.

The Landscaping Puzzle

(Grower Talk)

By: Melissa Netzer

Landscape Designer

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

I have often thought that designing a landscape is a lot like putting together a jigsaw puzzle. The goal is to create a finished picture that looks good and makes sense, by carefully fitting together all of the pieces provided. This is done ideally on a sturdy table, so small bumps don’t send the carefully crafted picture in all directions!

When doing an actual jigsaw puzzle, one has the advantage of seeing what the picture is supposed to turn out like. It’s on the top of the box. There is one right way for the pieces to be arranged and the person or people doing the puzzle can refer back to the top of the box for clues on how to fit them together.

In landscape design it’s a bit trickier. First, instead of a picture on the top of a box, the finished product is an elusive and sometimes sketchy vision in the mind of a Client. At the initial design appointment with a new client, the designer must ask questions and discuss ideas to come up with clues as to what the customer would like. After the wants, needs and style of the customer, or their “final picture”, is defined, the designer starts to collect the “pieces” needed to create this vision.

The first pieces that are needed are the physical characteristics of the site. They define your parameter, so to speak. These are the existing facts about the site that have to be worked with. How big is the site? Where do the house, garage, outbuildings, driveway, sidewalk, etc. sit? Are there setbacks or right-of-ways that need to be considered? Where and in what condition are the existing trees, shrubs, walls, walks? Do they want to keep them all? What is the existing grade? If the site is along a river or lake, are there erosion or permitting issues? And so on. Measurements and photographs of the site are taken to define all of these pieces. Getting a site plan and blueprint of the house is also helpful.

After determining those items that are not negotiable, the designer can start getting creative and collect the pieces that will make the landscape beautiful and unique to the Client and the site. Pieces like natural stone or paver materials that best suit the needs and style of the customer, pathways, patios, garden bed location, size and shape; plant selections that will suit the soil type and sun exposure in the different areas of the yard. In what areas do they want privacy? Can we screen some areas with plantings, fences, pergolas? Are there views to open up? Can we “borrow” beauty from beyond the site by framing it with perimeter plantings that draw the eye out? Where can we repeat the architecture or lines of the home within the landscape to create cohesion, or “fit” the landscape to the home?

Unlike doing a boxed puzzle, not every one of the pieces has to be used. They all should however be recognized, weighed out and prioritized to determine how they fit with first the facts of the site, then the style. After careful consideration and much sketching, the final picture begins to take shape. The pieces come together to make a whole that makes sense and looks beautiful. Just don’t bump the table!

For further questions about landscape design or if you are interested in having a design drawn for you, please contact Melissa at melissa@blochsfarm.com or 920.294.6000. Happy Thanksgiving and safe travels!

2009 Perennial Plant Of The Year

Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’

The Perennial Plant Association (PPA) has announced the 2009 Perennial Plant Of The Year. Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ features a graceful, flowing form and golden foliage. The color can vary depending on where the grass is planted. In partial shade, the foliage will appear almost all-yellow, with narrow green stripes near the margins. In full sun, the foliage can bleach to a parchment yellow, and in full shade, it becomes chartreuse. ‘Aureola’ will maintain its graceful, cascading habit throughout the season. In late summer, seed panicles will appear above the foliage. When the weather gets cooler, the foliage turns a reddish-pink hue. ‘Aureola’ can grow up to two feet tall and is hardy in Zones 5-9, and has been known to over winter as low as Zone 4. It will need to be mulched in late fall and well watered before going into the winter months.

I’ve seen this grass in landscapes and I personally think that it is a graceful plant which follows its reputation extremely well. I highly recommend ‘Aureola’ for any shade garden and to the avid gardener who is looking for something outstanding!

Are you getting ready for the spring garden season? Have Questions? Send them to ashley@blochsfarm.com .

Beautiful Fall Grasses

(Grower Talk)

By: Ashley Borzick

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Have a topic that you want to know more about?

Email ashley@blochsfarm.com

Bird’s Nest Spruce

By: Ashley Henke

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Picea abies 'Nidiformis' or commonly known as Bird’s Nest Spruce is a conifer (evergreen) used throughout many landscapes. This is one of my favorite shrubs in the landscape. Picea comes from the Latin word pix, meaning pitch, and abies is the Latin name for fir. ‘Nidiformis’ means nest-shaped. It is flat-topped, wider than high, and with a indented center, this spruce looks like its common name describes—birds nest spruce.

This spruce is a good choice for adding “bones” to the garden. It can be used in many aspects in the landscape, such as a border, specimen, or even background plant in an ornamental garden. This plant is easy to maintain, no trimming or pruning is necessary. This spruce is perfect for the rock garden specimen planting. In the summer, it gives a nice back drop for the blooming perennials, but in winter, this bright green shrub has the duty to keep the garden looking alive. Personally I feel that every garden needs to keep all season interest. Many conifers give the garden the green color throughout the snowy winter months and come in all different shapes, sizes, and colors.

The Bird’s Nest Spruce grows slowly to 2’-3’ tall and 4’- 6’ wide. The range depends on the growing conditions. It needs full sun or minimal shade and adapts too many types of soil. This spruce along with many others is very hardy to this part of Wisconsin. Birds Nest Spruce is rarely to never fed on by Japanese beetles.

Not only is this conifer good for growing in the landscape it is also good to give to others. Trees or shrubs make an excellent gift to others; birthday, anniversary, thank you, and even sympathy. Conifers are plants that give you the all season interest therefore the recipient of the conifer will think of you all year around. The fall planting season is the perfect time to introduce The Birds Nest Spruce into your own garden or better yet…a friends garden! Stop at Bloch’s Farm and check out our beautiful selection of Birds Nest Spruce and many other delightful conifers. Bloch’s Farm Retail Stores are open until November 1^st. Have a great fall and happy planting.

Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

Can your Plants Handle

the DOG DAYS OF SUMMER?

(Grower Talk)

By: Ashley Borzick

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Everyone loves the summer, including plant materials. When it comes to the hottest days of the year, we’re ready to see those falling leaves! Thee plants love the summer for the ideal growing conditions, but they sometimes can’t handle the summer heat. There are many ways to help your plants through the summer heat. One way is to have water readily available. Use a hand watering wand to ensure the roots of the plants are getting adequate water, this is crucial on a 90 degree day. Another way to water efficiently is with soaker hoses or with drip irrigation. Don’t assume that if your plant is wilting that it needs water, just like humans, plants can get heat stress. One sign of heat stress is wilting. Always check the soil moisture before watering especially during the hot weather.

Water wisely and water early in the morning before the heat of the day to minimize evaporation. Allow nature to do her share; you do not need to water your garden after a heavy rain. Water deeply and less frequently as opposed to shallow and frequent watering. Deep watering means deeper, more efficient root systems on your plants. Do not water your plants unless they need it. Mulch is a great way to help the plant retain water. 2-3 inches of mulch, such as double shredded bark or peat moss around the plant will help keep the soil moist. Make sure your gardens and landscapes are weed free. You don’t want your plants competing for the water and nutrients. Do not fertilize water stressed plants. The fertilizer will burn the plant and make it more susceptible to diseases.

One other solution is to plant drought resistant plants. There are many different varieties of plants out there that are beautiful and will handle the summer heat with out watering everyday. A few examples of drought resistant perennials are; Sedums, Yarrows, most day lilies, and many varieties of ground-covers. There are many trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals that come in a variety of sizes and forms. For a list of drought resistant plants, log on to www.blochsfarm.com or visit Bloch’s Farm Garden Center in Green Lake for a huge selection of drought resistant plants.

What do you want to learn about?

Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and she may pick your topic for the next article.

HOW DO I CONTROL GARDEN DISEASES WITHOUT CHEMICALS?

By: Ashley Borzick, Head Horticulturalist,

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Many home gardeners are looking for ways to control plant diseases with out the use of harmful chemicals. Here are some methods you can use to help control the spread of disease in your garden. They will also prevent disease from starting in your garden.

· Reduce excess leaf moisture. Humidity and moisture both contribute to plant disease.

· Select a site where air movement is not blocked.

· Keep plants spaced properly. The taller plants should be planted so they do not shade or block air movement to the shorter plants.

· Water in the morning so plants have a chance to dry off. It is not good for the plants roots to sit in water.

· Water only at the base of plants and try to keep foliage dry.

· Weeds compete for nutrients, moisture, and sun. Therefore it is necessary to control all weeds and get them out of the garden.

· Keep plants off the soil. Mulching helps, and stake or cage larger plants.

· Buy disease-resistant seeds and plants. Select varieties that are hardy and select to be resistant to diseases common in your area.

· Rotate crop and flower plantings. (Remove old soil and add fresh soil to pots and flower boxes.

· Harvest crops when ready, as over ripe vegetables attract disease.

· Garden sanitation is important, watch for signs of disease such as wilted or yellowing leaves. Clip off infected spots or take out entire plant. Remove from garden area.

There are many new organic options to control disease that is present in your gardens. Stop in to Bloch’s Farm and check out these new products. Our knowledgeable staff will be glad to assist and answer any questions you have.

Do you have gardening questions?

Send questions to Ashley, Horticulturist Bloch’s Farm. Email: ashley@blochsfarm.com

Attracting Birds to your Garden

By: Ashley Borzick

Head Horticulturist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake

Birds need only a few things to be happy - food, lodging, water, and cover. The best way to make sure your birds keep coming back is to create a suitable habitat. They want dense vegetation that provides a variety of food, shelter against bad weather and predators, a place to nest, and a year-round source of water.

Water is necessary for wild birds all year round. Water sources should be placed close to your feeders. Providing water is the very best way to attract birds to your yard. Yes, the birds are more attracted to water in your yard than by food! Birds really like the sound of water, use a dripper or a mister to attract them. Also small ponds with waterfalls are great attributes to any bird garden.

Plants are also great for bird gardens. They provide food, shelter, and a nesting place for them. There are several different types of plants to use including trees (both deciduous and evergreen), shrubs, and flowers (perennial and annual). The following are a few examples of shrubs to plant in your bird garden; RED CHOKEBERRY: Aronia arbutifolia., BARBERRY: Berberis thunbergii., DOGWOOD: Cornus. Sp., CURRANT: Ribes sp., SUMAC: Rhus sp., ROSE: Rosa sp. R. rugosa,, SPIRAEA: Spiraea sp., VIBURNUM: Viburnum sp.. COTONEASTER: Cotoneaster sp., HOLLY: Ilex sp.

The next list is some great trees to plant to invite birds, they provide shelter and most provide food as well; PINE: Pinus sp, FIR: Abies sp., HEMLOCK: Tsuga Canadensis, SPRUCE: Picea sp., CEDAR: Thuja sp., JUNIPER: Juniperus sp., MAPLES: Acer sp., SERVICEBERRY: Amelanchier sp., DOGWOOD: Cornus sp., HAWTHORN: Crataegus sp., BEECH: Fagus sp., CRABAPPLE: Malus sp., CHERRY: Prunus sp., OAK: Quercus sp., MOUNTAIN ASH: Sorbus sp., HAZELNUT: Corylus sp., QUACKING ASPEN: Populus sp.

Make your garden inviting to all birds, and they'll reward you with their song and presence year round. The bright colors of cardinals, blue jays, grosbeaks, and chickadees are one way to really "decorate" and liven up your garden throughout the seasons! If you have further questions on how to attract birds stop by Bloch’s Farm and talk with one of the friendly staff members.

Deer-Resistant Plant List

TREES
Abies, Fir
Acer palmatum, Japanese Maple
Chamaecyparis, False Cypress
Crataegus, Hawthorn
Cuppressus, Cypress
Fraxinus, Ash
Ginkgo biloba, Maidenhair Tree
Magnolia, Magnolia
Picea, Spruce
Pinus, Pine
Pseudotsuga menziesii, Douglas Fir
Quercus, Oak

GROUND COVERS & VINES
Ajuga, Carpet Bugle
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Dwarf Plumbago
Hedera helix, English Ivy
Pachysandra terminalis, Japanese Spurge
Vinca, Periwinkle
Wisteria, Wisteria

Shrubs

Abelia grandiflora, Glossy Abelia
Berberis, Barberry
Buddleia, Butterfly Bush
Buxus, Boxwood
Calluna vulgaris, Scotch Heather
Chaenomeles, Flowering Quince
Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster
Daphne, Daphne
Erica, Heath
Ilex, Holly
Juniperus, Juniper
Potentilla, Cingquefoil
Rhododendron (not Azaleas)
Ribes, Currant & Gooseberry
Syringa, Lilac
Viburnum, Viburnum

BULBS
Crocus, Crocus
Cyclamen, Cyclamen
Dahlia, Dahlia
Narcissus, Daffodil
Stachys byzantina, Lamb’s Ears
Zantedeschia, Calla Lily

PERENNIALS
Achillea, Yarrow

Alchemilla, Lady's Mantle
Aquilegia, Columbine
Artemisia, Wormwood
Aster, Aster
Astilbe, False Spirea
Buddleia, Butterfly Bush
Carex, Sedge
Centaurea. Bachelor Button
Cerastium tomentosum, Snow-In-Summer
Convallaria, Lily of the Valley
Coreopsis, Coreopsis
Dicentra, Bleeding Heart
Digitalis, Foxglove
Echinacea purpurea, Purple Coneflower
Erodium reichardii, Cranesbill
Euphorbia, Cushion Spurge
Ferns
Festuca ovina ‘Glauca’, Blue Fescue Grass
Gaillardia grandiflora, Blanket Flower
Geranium, Cranesbill
Helichrysum, Sunflower
Helleborus, Helleborus
Hemerocallis, Daylily
Herbs (except Basil)
Iberis, Candytuft
Iris, Iris
Lamium maculatum, Dead Nettle
Limonium, Sea Lavender
Liriope, Lily Turf
Lupinus, Lupine
Miscanthus sinensis, Maiden Grass
Monarda, Bee Balm
Papaver orientale, Oriental Poppy
Penstemon, Beard Tongue
Phlox subulata, Creeping Phlox
Rudbeckia hirta, Black-Eyed Susan
Salvia, Sage
Scabiosa (some), Pincushion Flower
Thymus, Thyme
Verbena, Verbena
Viola odorata, Sweet Violet

Red is My TOP 10 List

(Grower Talk)

By: Ashley Borzick

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Dwarf Evergreens

Is there such a thing as evergreens that stay small (dwarf)? The answer is yes! The definition of dwarf is that the plant grows 6”-10” per year. These unique dwarf evergreens can be found at Bloch’s Farm. The name of the dwarf series is FANCIFUL GARDENS and includes such names such as Picea glauca ‘Jeans Dilly’, Pinus mugo ‘Slowmound’, Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Mops’, and Taxus cuspidate ‘Nana Aurescens’. These plants come in an array of different colors; golds, blues, and greens. The plants offer year round interest. Standing out in spring and summer gardens and keeping strong through out fall and into the winter.

Dwarf evergreens require full to part sun, enjoying soil that is well-drained. When planted directly into the ground, make sure that the root zone is constantly moist and well fertilized. Your dwarf evergreens will over winter when provided with proper care. They need to have mulch, such as clean straw or mounded bark around the base of the evergreen to ensure insulation of the roots. In the winter, these dwarf evergreens stand out beautifully against the snowy backdrop of the winter landscape.

Dwarf Evergreens also compliment each other in patio containers. There are so many different varieties that work well together that you will have endless opportunities when creating your patio centerpiece. Not only will these containers provide you with all season interest, they will be quite the conversation piece. Keep in mind when using these evergreens above ground that you need to regularly water and protect them from the harsh winter cold. To provide insulation you could wrap the container with burlap or heavy fabric. When you provide your container with water, fertilization, and winter insulation, your plants will live for many years in the container. Cut evergreens boughs could also decorate your container and provide good insulation.

Come check out the already beautiful patio containers at Bloch’s Farm. If you want to create your own masterpiece we offer the plants in 4” round black pots and have a wide variety to choose from.

Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

It’s time to Plant for a Stunning Spring Show

(Grower Talk)

By: Ashley Borzick

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Nothing is more satisfying than planting dormant brown bulbs in fall and seeing them emerge in late winter or early spring with fresh green shoots and A beautiful rainbow of colors of flowers red, blue, & yellow flowers. There are many different varieties of spring and summer flowering bulbs that need to be planted during the fall. This will give you color from January through June depending on the variety of bulbs you plant. Bulbs have different bloom times, therefore you could have them blooming as early as January through the middle of summer.

Spring bulbs should be planted before the ground freezes and while bulbs are still firm and dormant. Planting in September through November is best. In general, bulbs should be planted in sunny areas. There are some bulbs that will take partial shade. ONE TRICK WE HAVE LEARNED OVER THE YEARS IS TO LOOK UP! LOOK UP IN THE AREA THAT YOU ARE PLANTING YOUR BULBS IN. IF THERE IS A FEAVY GREEN TREE ABOVE YOU PROVIDING SUMMER AND FALL SHADE, KEEP IN MIND THAT IN SPRING THE LEAVES WILL NOT BE FULLY DEVELOPED YET AND THIS COULD BE A SUNNY SPOT SAFE TO PLANT YOUR BULBS IN! Bulbs grow best in most soil as long as it has good drainage.

When planting Bulbs it is very important to plant them at the appropriate depts. The rule of thumb is you should dig the hole the same size and height of the bulb. Refer to the package or tear-off tag for variety specific information.

There are many different types of bulbs to plant. Bloch’s Farm has a wide selection of bulbs for your home gardening needs. We carry Daffodil, Tulip, Hyacinth, Allium, Muscari, & Ranunculus. There are also some special blends that are prepackaged. For further information on bulbs, stop by Bloch’s Farm and talk with our knowledgeable sales staff.

Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

Fall Landscape Clean Up Tips

Ashley Henke, Head Horticulturalist,

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Perennials

Cut back and divide perennials
Leave Fall blooming perennials & grasses for birds and winter interest
Use Leaves as a mulch to protect landscapes

Perennials, tender shrubs, roses

Annuals

Remove all annuals from landscape and containers
Throw out soil (to get rid of any disease that may be in the soil)
Clean out containers & sterilize to get rid of any disease & insects
Put away containers, they will get damaged due to freezing temperatures.

Turn birdbaths & fountains upside down or put away

Trees & Shrubs

Trees and shrubs that bloom early in the growing season on last year’s growth should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming:

apricot		Juneberry
azalea	flowering plum	lilac
chokeberry	cherry	magnolia
chokecherry	forsythia	early blooming spirea

Shrubs grown primarily for their foliage rather than showy flowers should be pruned in spring or fall:

alpine currant	dogwood	purpleleaf sandcherry
barberry	honeysuckle	smokebush
burning bush	ninebark	sumac
	peashrub	spirea

Here are a few tips as you start your fall cleanup. For further questions, email ashley@blochsfarm.com or stop at Bloch’s Farm to talk with our retail staff or myself.

How do I control moles in my lawn?

Moles are little carnivores that eat grubs and earthworms and other soil organisms. There are two basic ways to control them; 1) Eliminate their main food supply, which are grubs, or 2) Drive them away with sound or trapping.

The first and foremost way to control the moles in a lawn is to get rid of the food source. Grubs are the main food source of moles. They burry up the lawn looking for their food, grubs. Grubs are the larvae of beetles, feeding on the root systems of your lawn. They have a white “C” shaped body. At Bloch’s farm, we carry products that will immediately terminate the grubs, as well as products to control them all season long. Stop in and check out some of these products available to control grubs.

You can also repel or trap moles. Using homemade remedies such as, moth balls, human hair, or noisemakers placed in their tunnels. The best control for persistent problems is trapping. Moles are most active in early morning, evening, and after a warm rain. You can use live traps placed in the main tunnel to eliminate these moles. For further questions or additional information on controlling moles in your lawn, stop by Bloch’s Farm to speak with our knowledgeable staff.

Do you have gardening questions?

Send questions to Ashley, Horticulturist Bloch’s Farm. Email: ashley@blochsfarm.com

It’s Time to Winterize

By: Ashley Henke, Head Horticulturalist,

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

As the temperatures start to drop and the snow starts to fall, it’s time to start thinking about winterizing your gardens, patios, and landscapes. There are many items that you will need to take into consideration with winter just around the corner.

Let’s start with all the beautiful containers which provided us color all summer long. These need to be emptied of plant materials and soils and then put indoors to protect them from the freezing and thawing temperatures this winter . This will keep them from cracking apart, prolongs their longevity and appear new for years to come.

Don’t forget about your fancy birdbaths. These need to be brought indoors or at least tipped upside down so that water does not stay in them and serve as a reservoir during the winter. To keep your birds happy all winter, purchase a plastic birdbath with a heater or insert a heated ring to keep the water from freezing.

During the month of November, before the ground freezes, water all newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials one last time. Plants need to be moist going into the winter. Make sure to blow out and then move all hoses and watering tools indoors. Sometimes the freezing and thawing during the winter will cause hoses and other tools to crack or even burst apart. Also make sure to open any valves that you are unable to move indoors.

Winterizing your pond or even your patio water garden needs to be done soon. The water plants that are not hardy to our zone can be overwintered if done properly. Take the plants out of the pond and cut back the foliage about 6 inches. Place the plant (in its container) and put into a pail with water. The water should be completely covering the plants just as if it were still in the pond. Then place the pail into a cool and dark area, such as a basement. Remember the plants that are zone 4 hardy will over winter in the pond. While this works most of the time, there is a chance that the water plants may die.

Lastly, don’t forget about your trees. This is the time of year where the rabbits get hungry and the deer like to rub on the tree trunks. Put plastic tree guards around the trunk of the tree to protect them. Make sure to go all the way up so no trunk is showing. One other way to protect your trees is to spray deer and rabbit repellant around the tree. Just remember that you will need to reapply after every snowfall.

Have fun winterizing your gardens and landscapes. If you have any other questions feel free to email me ashley@blochsfarm.com or call me at 920.294.6000 ext 14. And please remember to donate to your local food pantry and other giving organizations this winter.

Is it Necessary to Mulch my Garden?

By: Ashley Borzick, Head Horticulturalist,

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

A well mulched garden saves you work and promotes the health of your plants. Mulch is a layer of material spread on the ground around your plants. This helps keep the soil moist, holds down weeds, improves the texture of the soil, and keeps dirt from splashing up onto the leaves and flowers. When you choose organic mulch, as it decays, it will release valuable nutrients back into the ground. All mulches give a finished, well-groomed look to the garden.

After planting, apply a 1-3 inch layer of mulch around plants, being careful not to get it too close to the stems. Good choices are peat moss, composted leaves, shredded bark, Eucalyptus, or cocoa bean hull mulch. It should only be used in full sun beds, however, so it has the opportunity to dry out between rains or it can become odorous. Also, do not use cocoa bean mulch over landscape mat as when it becomes wet, it can be slippery. Many people enjoy the look and smell of cocoa bean hulls as mulch as it gives your sun garden a beautiful deep brown contrast.

When using plastic or fabric landscape mat under your mulch product, one needs to be careful. You will need to leave large growing holes around the plant materials, or your plants will not be able to spread and the mat can “girdle” or choke them. It is always a good idea to consult your friendly Bloch’s Farm Staff for any questions regarding mulch or landscape fabric.

Is it necessary to mulch your garden/landscape? The ultimate choice is up to you, but I would highly recommend it. As I have described above, mulching your beds makes gardening much easier! After all, taking care of and making your garden look nice is part of the pleasure of having a garden/landscape. Bloch’s Farm has a wide selection of mulch and landscaping supplies to help make your landscape be all that it can be. Stop in and check out our selection.

Do you have gardening questions?

Send questions to Ashley, head Horticulturist Bloch’s Farm. Email: ashley@blochsfarm.com

I have so many deer in my yard, what can I do to protect my landscape?

Damage to ornamental plants by white-tailed deer has increased during the past decade. This increase is attributed to rising deer populations and human populations moving from rural and suburban home sites.

Most research reveals that the best approach to control deer damage is an integrated pest management (IPM) plan, which includes population management, fencing, repellents, or plant management. Planting ornamental plants not favored by deer, will help homeowners to attempt to preserve their landscapes.

What plants can I use that are deer resistant?

The lists below are accumulated from various research projects and trade professionals. This is only a guide as most animals will adapt to the available food sources.

Trees

· Aesculus parviflora / Bottlebrush Buckeye

· Cornus kousa / Chinese Dogwood

· Betula nigra ‘heritage’ / Heritage Birch

· Gleditsia tricanthos / Thornless locust

· Picea abies / Norway Spruce

· Picea Pungens glauca / Colorado Blue Spruce

· Pinus Nigra / Austrian Pine

· Pseuditsuga nebziesii / Douglas Fir

Shrubs

· Berberis / Barberry

· Buxus sp. / Boxwood

· Cotinus coggygria / Smoke Tree

· Forsythia sp / Forsythia

· Ilex spp. / Holly

· Juniper chinensis / Juniper

· Yucca spp. / Yucca

Sun Perennials

· Achillea / Yarrow

· Alchemilla / Lady’s Mantle

· Amsonia / Blue Star

· Aquilegia / Columbine

· Dianthus / Dianthus

· Iris

· Lavandula / Lavender

· Monarda/ Beebalm

· Perovskia atriplicifolia / Russian Sage

· Veronica / Speedwell

· Rudbeckia hirta / Black eyed Susan

· Thymus / Thyme

Shade Perennials

· Aquilegia / Columbine

· Chelone glabra / Turtlehead

· Dicentra / Bleeding Heart

· Heuchera

· Lamium / Dead nettle

· Pulmonaria /lungwort

· Tiarella cordifolia / Foam flower

· Ostrich Fern

· Cinnamon Fern

· Christmas Fern

Groundcovers

· Ajuga / Bugleweed

· Convallaria / Lilly of the Valley

· Galium odoratum / Sweet Woodruff

· Pachysandra /Japanese Spurge

· Vinca minor / periwinkle

(Hort’s Corner)

By: Ashley Borzick

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Queen of the Prairie
Filipendula rubra

Featured Plant of the week

            Many plants are at their peak right now. One plant in particular that is outstanding at this time of year is the Queen of the Prairie. The name speaks for it self. “QUEEN” This plant stands tall and is very beautiful. It also has striking foliage and overall appearance.
This native perennial plant grows about 3-6' tall. The central stem is smooth and sometimes reddish. The unique leaves are up to 2' long. They are often yellowish green, and become much smaller and sparser towards the top of the plant. Each leaf has 1-7 leaflets which are reddish towards the stem of the leaf. Each leaflet is up to 6" long and across. The flowers bloom on a long naked stalk, consisting of a panicle of pink buds and flowers about 5-8" across. Each flower consists of pink and white plumes. The overall appearance of the flower resembles wind-tossed fluff or foam, and is very beautiful. The flowers bloom from the bottom up, and have little or no fragrance. The blooming period occurs from early to mid-summer, and lasts about 3 weeks. Afterwards, straight reddish fruits develop. The root system consists of a taproot and rhizomes. Queen-of-the-Prairie tends spread under moist conditions. The preference is full or partial sun, and wet to moist conditions. It has a distinctive appearance, and can't be confused with any other native plant!
You can find a living/blooming sample of this native beauty at Bloch’s Farm. It is located in our native berm and is available in 4”, 1 gallon and 3 gallon pots. Please come see the Queen of the Prairie Plant for yourself.
Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

Question & Answer
(Grower Talk)
By: Ashley Borzick
Head Horticulturalist
Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

QUESTION FROM JANE: I purchased a beautiful gardenia tree this summer. It was on the porch all summer long and did well. When moved into the house, the blooms lessened and had big leaf loss. Recently I’ve noticed some new buds and the leaf loss has stopped. Now I am noticing some white “lice” looking stuff on the leaves. What do I do about it?

ASHLEY’S ANSWER: Your Gardenia is reacting to the change in its environment. Even a sunny indoor window does not provide as much light as light shade outdoors. Gardenias do better with temps in the 55-65 degree range at this time of year and that is probably colder than you keep your home. Once the heat comes on in the house the air starts to dry out. Your gardenia will acclimate to this temperate change and require less water. This means you will have to adjust your watering schedule, allowing the soil to dry out in between waterings.

Gardenias are one of the more difficult plants to grow and bloom indoors successfully. Temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees are essential when gardenias are in bud or bloom. Bud drop can occurs above 70 degrees. Bud deformity occurs below 55 degrees. Letting the soil get too dry will also cause bud drop. A change in environment, like bringing the plant indoors from outdoors, will also cause bud drop. Just bear with the plants changes and it will eventually come around once it adjusts to the light changes and watering schedule.
Pests are another task with any houseplant. The white “lice” looking stuff could either be mealy bugs, spider mites, or aphids. I’ve included descriptions and control methods for these commonly seen house pests.
Mealy bugs are off-white in color and have oval flattened bodies. They leave small cottony masses, their eggs, where the leaves join onto the stem. They like dark places so be sure to check under the leaves and well inside the foliage of a plant regularly. A severe infestation will cause wilting, discoloration and stunted growth of a plant. They also excrete a sticky ‘honeydew’ which could attract a black sooty mold. To control, swab off the white cottony egg mass with an alcohol-soaked cloth or Q-tip. Mist the insects with a mild soapy solution and repeat if necessary on a weekly basis. For severe infestations, a systemic chemical would be most effective as this would be taken in by the insect rather than having to penetrate the mealy bug's waxy coating. I know Sue Ellen Bloch uses Schultz’s insect spray.

Spider mites are tiny spiders hardly visible with the naked eye. If you are using a hand lens you would be able to see that the creatures have eight legs rather than the six typical of insects. Like most spiders they spin small webs which are visible on the bottom of leaves, between leaves, over flower buds. Small yellow or brown spots (stipples) may also appear on the tops of the leaves. A severe infestation will give the plant a dusty look, the leaves will eventually turn a rusty red color before dropping off. For early detection, try placing a piece of white paper under the plant or a single leaf and then tapping it. The small mites (about the size of fine sand) are easy to see on the white background as they crawl around. To control spider mites; mist the plant regularly with water, the spider mites don’t like the humidity. Adding a little insecticidal soap to the water will also help in the battle against this most persistent pest. Remove the webs and the spider mites by washing the plant in soapy warm water, paying particular attention to the underside of all the leaves. Washing will not always remove all the eggs so repeat the treatment every 3 to 4 days until the plant is clear to ensure its success.
Aphids are found mostly on the undersides of leaves, new shoots and buds. Aphids may be green, pink, brown, white, black, yellow, red or grey. They live in small groups. Aphids suck out juices from the plants, causing stunted growth, and distortion of buds and leaves. Like the mealy bug, they also excrete a sticky ‘honeydew’ which could attract a black sooty mold. To control, remove as many as possible by hand with a soft brush. Then take the plant and rinse it upside-down in a weak solution of soapy water. Be careful not to water the soil with the soapy water. If the soapy water does not work, you can use some common chemicals. Aphids are becoming resistant to some of the commonly used chemicals, so make sure to read the label front and back to see if it controls aphids.
Good Luck with your Gardenia tree. Hope this information helps.
Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

Striking Plants for every Season

I hope everyone is enjoying this warm weather during February! I even had my windows open just to smell the fresh air. Hopefully you got the chance to drive around and see some gardens with winter interest. Last week I gave you my top ten list of plants to be used for winter interest. This week, I just want to give you some more specific details about the plants to help you decide what plants would work in your winter landscape.
Holly Ilex species, is a very simple evergreen shrub with striking green foliage with bright red berries. This is often seen in winter decorating and floral arrangements. There are many different shapes and sizes of Holly, to fit in any area in your landscape. Red twig Dogwood, Cornus sericea 'Allemans' , Is a tried and true shrub that has amazing red color throughout the year. It reaches 6-10 feet tall and is very hardy in our extreme climate. It is simply outstanding against the snowy backdrop of winter. It blooms in May with white flowers followed by white berries, which birds love.
Plume grass, Erianthus ravennae, is an amazing ornamental grass. It can be grown in zones 4-9 and it grows 8'-11' , its clump has a spread of 3'-4'. It stands tall with a thin stem and fluffy coiffures. Try this grass for both winter and Fall interest. It is a magnificent sight. Bayberry, Myrica pensylvanica, is a shrub with a spreading habit (4'-6' by 4'-6'), hardy to our zone 4 climate. It has glossy, aromatic foliage that complements its waxy, gray fruit The shrub is also drought tolerant. The birds may like bayberry, but the deer don't, as it's one of the deer-resistant plants. American Cranberrybush Viburnum, Viburnum trilobum 'Compactum', yields large amounts of red berries that serve as a source of food for birds in the winter landscape. A rounded shrub, it bears white flowers in May and June that are followed by red fruit. The shrub has foliage that changes red to purple in fall. It grows 4'-5' high, with a spread of 3'-4'.
Here is the first half of the list! Next week I will give you the second half of the list. Enjoy!!

The Scents of Christmas
By: Ashley Henke, Head Horticulturalist,
Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

It’s hard to believe it’s already the first week in December, I thought it was appropriate to write about the upcoming Christmas season. One important aspect of Christmas is the scents associated with this holiday. What does Christmas smell like to you? Everyone has a favorite scent that reminds them of Christmas. Maybe it’s the scent of baking Christmas cookies, the roasting of wood in the fireplace, or the fresh cut Christmas tree that is brought into your home. For me, it is the simple scent of our Christmas tree. This aroma can also be enjoyed from a wreath, arrangement, or evergreen boughs simply lain on the fireplace mantle. There are many ways to decorate your home to bring in this beautiful aroma.

The simplest way to bring evergreen aroma into your home is with your very own fresh cut Christmas tree. On a more creative note, you can use many different types of evergreens to create a beautiful arrangement. To do this, you will need to get a variety of fresh evergreen boughs. These boughs can be found locally at most Christmas Tree Farms. Boughs are reasonably priced and I recommend using several varieties; Frasier fir, Balsam Fir, Colorado Blue Spruce, White Pine, and Cedar. I also recommend wearing gloves to protect your hands and wrists from the sap and prickly needles. Just arrange the boughs into a container of your choice. You may also use florist foam that has been soaked in water first. Using floral foam allows you more freedom to make your arrangement different shapes and sizes. Make sure to water the arrangement so that it will last throughout the Holiday Season. The internet is a wonderful source of ideas for your arrangement. It will be easy to mimic the pictures that you find.

There are many other products that you can use when decorating your home. Red Twig Dogwood is one of my favorites. Simply cut a few twigs out of your shrub and place in a vase mixed with some of your fall grasses and evergreen boughs. This creates a dramatic effect and is easy to do. Another item to use in your creations is Winterberry, Ilex verticillata. This is a shrub that stays beautiful all winter long; the clustery red berries are beautiful against the winter snow. Another plant that I would suggest is winter Holly, Ilex species; simply trim a few branches off of your plant. Holly can be used both for its branches and berries.

These are just a few ideas to bring the beautiful aroma of Christmas into your home. Be creative, there are many other ways to decorate for Christmas that don’t cost a thing! Take a walk in your landscape and the possibilities are endless! Have fun decorating!

Do you have a topic that you are thinking about this winter? Email me at ashley@blochsfarm.com and I will gladly answer any questions or discus any topic. Don’t forget about the avid gardener in your life this Christmas; give them a Bloch’s Farm Gift Card available in any amount! Please call 920.294.6000 or email us at info@blochsfarm.com to order your gift card today.

Tips for Healthy House Plants

Don’t over water. Make sure to thoroughly check the soil before watering. Plants go through a dormant period. They require just enough water to keep the soil moist. Make sure to check the soil at least one inch down before watering. Over watering is the number one cause of houseplant failure.
Don’t Fertilize. Plants like to “sleep” in the winter and do not need to be fertilized. Do you fertilize your landscape in the winter? I didn’t think so, once you start fertilizing outside then you can inside as well.
Wash your windows. You would be surprised how much dirt and dust is on your windows. With winter having only a few sunny days, make sure your plants get the most out of them by having clean windows. Make sure to wash both inside and out!
Mist your plants. Houseplants are mostly tropical plants. This is why they are houseplants and not outdoor in your landscape. They require high humidity levels, especially when we fire up the heaters. So remember to mist your plants, either with a hand sprayer or even a humidifier, this works for both for yourself and the plants.
Give your plants a bath. Plants accumulate dust over time and this clogs up the plants pores. Causing the plants not to “breathe”. Make sure to either wash the entire plant or take a damp cloth and wipe the leaves regularly.
Place Plants in a sunny window. The angle of the sun changes during the winter months, which means the windows your plants were in for the summer, may not receive the same amount of sun in the winter. So move your plants for the next few months to that new bright window. Also remember to turn your houseplants every week or two, so they receive light evenly on all sides.

These are just a few tips to help you care for your houseplants through the winter months. Have any other questions about caring for your houseplants, email me at ashley@blochsfarm.com.

Using Natives in the Landscape

(Grower Talk)
By: Ashley Borzick
Head Horticulturalist
Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Many people are confused as to what a “native” plant is. A native plant is one that has occurred naturally, without human help, in a particular place since the early European settlements.

In Wisconsin, our ecosystems are typically forest, grassland, and wetlands and each break down to various and diverse communities within each. For example, grasslands also include prairies and meadows. Many of these different ecosystems within the state can be observed just by just driving down the highway, or on winding side roads, or taking a walk through a woodland forest.

Within these different native communities are large varieties of trees, shrubs, and perennials that all have adapted to the climate, soil conditions, and wildlife. While some people think that native plants look wild and unkempt, in all reality they are some of the most beautiful plants. Some have colorful flowers, wonderful fruit displays, strong winter interest, great bark features, and even spectacular fall color.

Now you’re thinking, can native plants be a part of my landscape? The answer is….absolutely, when placed in the correct location. The first aspect that would need to be determined is site selection. Is the area to be planted hot and dry all day, is it shady and always feel moist to the touch, or is it somewhat a mixture of both? Also consider the size of the area to be planted.

Native plants offer many benefits for the home landscape. Because they have naturally adapted to their habitat, native plants practically take care of themselves. When the plants are placed correctly and have established, they typically require little maintenance such as watering, fertilizing, and pruning. Many natives help control erosion and reduce runoff with their deep root systems or suckering habit. They provide food and shelter in some way for wildlife, many of the flowering plants provide a generous food supply with either their nectar or with large seed heads.

Some great examples of native trees are listed; ASH - EUROPEAN MOUNTAIN (SORBUS AUCUPARIA), BIRCH - WHITE (JAPANESE WHITE-PLATYPHYLLA JAPONICA), MAPLE - SILVER (ACER SACCHARNIUM), MAPLE - SUGAR (ACER SACCHARNIUM), CHOKECHERRY - COMMON (PRUNUS VIRGINIANA), CRAB - MIDWEST (MULUS BACCATA VAR. MANDSHURICA),   CRANBERRYBUSH-AMERICAN (VIBURNUM TRILOBUM), DOGWOOD - RED OSIER (CORNUS SERICEA), and many more. All of these species and many more native plants can be found at Bloch’s Farm in Green Lake.. For further information please visit us and start your native landscape today!

Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

Don’t BUG me

(Grower Talk)
By: Ashley Borzick
Head Horticulturalist
Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

            It’s getting to be that time of year where the bugs come to play in the garden! It is a strenuous time of year for many plants. The hot and dry weather causes them to stress and therefore become more susceptible to insects and diseases. For this article I want to focus on one specific insect, the SQUASH BUG, Anasa tristis. These insects are very noticeable this time year.
            Adult squash bugs are brownish-black insects about 5/8 inch long. Both adults and nymphs have a bad odor if crushed. Newly hatched nymphs have a reddish head and legs and green bodies which change and darken as they age.
The Squash bugs overwinter as adults in sheltered places, such as under plant debris, around buildings, or under rocks. When adults emerge in the spring, they fly to growing cucurbit plants to feed and mate. Female squash bugs lay eggs individually in small clusters of about 20 commonly on the undersides of the leaves, especially between the veins where they form a V . Eggs may also be laid on stems. The females usually start appearing in gardens in early June and continue to lay eggs through mid-summer. Eggs hatch in about 10 days. Nymphs require about four to six weeks before maturing into adults. Both adults and nymphs are secretive and quickly scurry for cover when disturbed. One generation develops each year, although it is possible that in some summers there is a partial second generation. The life stages overlap and all of them can be seen at any given time during the growing season. In the fall, especially after the vines have died, the adults, and late nymphs often congregate on squash fruits. The nymphs die when the temperatures drop to freezing. The adults gradually fly or crawl to sheltered places to overwinter.
            The squash bug damages crops by sucking plant sap from leaves of squash, pumpkin, and related crops. They enjoy the adult plants instead of seedlings. Attacked leaves wilt rapidly and become black and crisp, as if the flow of sap has been cut off. In the early season, young vine crops are easily killed; older plants may have runners damaged or killed. Winter varieties of squash, such as the Butternut, are most severely injured.
            Controlling the squash bugs is very difficult as an adult. The best time is when they are nymphs. Examine your crops regularly so that insecticide applications can be applied when young bugs are present. Two week intervals will be needed for the best coverage.
            If you are having a problem with your squash bugs, email me or stop in and I can answer any further questions you may have. Chemical control and organic insecticides are available at Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake.
            Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

WHAT IS A HOSTA?

(Grower Talk)
By: Ashley Borzick
Head Horticulturalist
Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Hostas are hardy, easy to grow, shade perennial plants that display an array of various colors, sizes, textures and shapes. These shade tolerant plants range in size from thumbnail size leaves to leaves a foot wide and clumps as large as seven feet across! Colors range from green, blue, gold and white or with mixed colors of variegation on edge or center. Flowers range from lavender to white and many are fragrant! Hosta plants tolerate partial shade but many can take quite a bit of sun. Hostas aren't picky about soil but benefit from moist soil that is well drained with organic matter. They make perfect accent plants or specimens but many can also be used as groundcovers in the landscape. Hostas are the number one gardening perennial sold today.
This is a basic description of a hosta. To find out more about the unique varieties of hostas. Come to Bloch’s Farm on Saturday, August 2^nd at 2:00PM. There will be a hosta and daylily seminar. Guest Speaker Bob Krueger, Ripon, will present the following points about hostas; How/where to plant hostas, What makes each hosta different, Common Trends – Breeding, Varieties, Stamping, and How to identify a diseased hosta. Please register by calling Bloch’s Farm (920) 294- 6000 or emailing info@blochsfarm.com The seminar will be held rain or shine.

Have questions about your plants? Gardens? Insects? Landscape? Email ashley@blochsfarm.com and your questions will be answered.

Why is my Apple Tree
not Producing Fruit?

By: Ashley Henke

Head Horticulturalist

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

       There are several reasons why apples don’t produce fruit, including: weather, age, cross-pollination, pruning, and over all health of the tree. When growing any type of plant, the weather has a major impact on the success of the plant. Weather has a critical role while apple trees are in bloom as poor weather conditions during bloom can have a bad effect on apple production. Cold, wet, windy weather while the apple trees are in bloom reduce the activity of pollinating insects. Even if your trees were in full bloom, those flowers may not have been pollinated. Without pollination, there will be no fruit.
      New plantings will take some time before they will set fruit. Trees need to become established before they start flowering. Newly planted apple trees start to bear fruit anywhere from 2 to 5 years of age. Dwarf apple trees bear around 1 to 3 years of age.
      Apples need cross-pollination. If an apple tree flowers every spring but never seems to produce much if any fruit, it could be there is no pollinating source. Most apple varieties require another apple variety or a crabapple for cross-pollination. If only one tree exists or a group of the same variety, poor pollination means little or no fruit production. Plant at least two varieties of apple trees near one another. Information on particular pollination requirements can usually be found on the tree tag.
     Pruning on a regular basis is needed to keep trees productive. Trees not pruned, will decline in fruit production. For good fruit production, apple trees need branches that are horizontal. Early spring is a good time for pruning apples. Keep in mind, however, that apples do produce fruit on old "spurs" so older wood is necessary for fruit production, but the trees need to be kept opened up and healthy with proper pruning.
     Overall tree health is also important. Watering trees during dry periods is critical. Avoid wounding the trunk or root system; this encourages diseases and insects to attack the tree. Pest management helps keep trees healthy so they set fruit and also helps protect fruit once it has set. Please refer to our website www.blochsfarm.com for pest control information and spray times.
     In conclusion, your older trees can still produce fruit, but you may have to prune them to get them producing again. For the new trees, make sure they are old enough and that you have pollinators nearby to pollinate the trees to help set the fruit. For further questions on apple trees, stop by Bloch’s Farm and talk to a retail sales associate or myself.

Have a topic that you want to know more about?

Email ashley@blochsfarm.com

Winter Gardening

I know that you are laughing at that title. I mean it is 10 degrees outside and the wind is howling out over your front yard. You look out and all you can see is the sparkle on your snow covered gardens. This article we are going to talk about what you can do to stay out of the winter blues.

I look outside and the only color is see is white and green. White being the snow that is carefully covering all my gardens to protect them from the freezing temperatures. The Green color comes from the evergreens that are growing along the roadside. I look at the gardens at Bloch’s Farm and there is more winter interest in these then my own. Now is the perfect time to look at other people’s gardens to see what sticks out in the winter months. There are many beautiful trees and shrubs that give us the glow in the winter months, some that you would probably not even think about. Of course, we can’t go with our saying that the evergreens and conifers are the best to bring color into the winter landscape.

On the other hand, there are also many deciduous trees and shrubs that also radiate the winter season magnificently. This is my top ten list of plants that you should consider planting in your landscape that will give you beauty ALL year round.

1. Holly, Ilex species

2. Red twig Dogwood, Cornus sericea 'Allemans'

3. Plume grass, Erianthus ravennae

4. Bayberry, Myrica pensylvanica

5. American Cranberrybush Viburnum, Viburnum trilobum 'Compactum'

6. Winterberry Holly, Ilex verticillata

7. Birch Trees, Betula species

8. Yew Shrubs, Taxus species

9. Canadian Hemlocks, Tsuga canadenesis

10. Viking Black Chokeberry, Aronia melanocarpa

Each one of these plants has there own special interest. Stayed tuned next week for the first half of the top ten list in detail. I will help you to make your decision on which ones or all will fit into your winter landscape. In the meantime take a drive and look at winter landscapes in your community and see what catches your eye. There is much to look at especially in the gardener’s eye. Write down what you see and pull that list out in the spring to make sure to plant them in your landscapes. Happy February Everyone, we are getting closer to spring gardening season.

Beyond Mums and Asters: Fall & Winter Interest in Your Garden, Part 1

By Dawn Rae Jones, Retail Manager, Bloch’s Farm

As late fall approaches I realize that my new garden is lacking something. It is now mostly green foliage that is browning out and dying back. There’s not a whole lot that catches the eye and I wonder how stimulating it is going to be looking out my window at it all winter long. I put a lot of work into my garden this year but now I realize that I need to enhance it next year to give it more fall and winter interest so it can be enjoyed all year around.

There are many plants that I have chosen to include next year to add fall and winter interest to my garden. Some plants cure to a vivid color, or have a spectacular seed head. Others will create drama just by adding texture or structure under the snow. Since there are so many possibilities of what to add, I’ll split the list into two parts. This is in no particular order, just easier to digest in small portions… Here’s the first half of my “to-add” list:

Angelica gigas. This is a native biennial that takes your breath away! It can reach up to 4-6’ tall and spreads by self-sowing. Angelica gigas blooms in late summer with beautiful, glistening purple umbels on maroon stems. It is very interesting to watch the buds develop and open too. Be careful when handling the gigas as it can cause skin irritation. Gloves are definitely required. It is a short-lived plant and can stand alone as a specimen or can be complimented well by Culver’s root or Rudbeckia.

Angelica atropurpurea. This is another native, a cousin to the gigas. It can vary in height from 2-8’ and bears striking reddish stems. It needs full sun and thrives in wet meadows, woodsy areas, along stream banks, and even in muddy soil. The biggest difference between atropurpurea and gigas is the blossom. Atropurpurea forms a whole ball-shape like a large allium while the gigas is only a half-circle. This plant can easily stand alone or be paired with cattails, great blue lobelia, or even New England Aster. Leave it standing throughout the winter to give your garden some very unique structural interest.

Gaultheria- Christmas wintergreen. This plant stands no more than 6” tall and can be used as a very colorful groundcover. In the springtime it has small white blossoms and in autumn it turns a beautiful burgundy-red and produces bright red berries. It is also aromatic. It is another cute native that provides great fall interest.

Chrysanthemum- “Clara Curtis”. This is an old-fashion variety of mum that has proven reliable for decades. It can easily reach between 2’-3’ tall and attracts bees, birds, and butterflies. When paired with “The Blues” grass or a tall white or purple phlox, it adds real impact to your flower bed.

Schizachyrium scoparium- “The Blues”. This is the hybridized form of little blue stem. It carries a little more color than little blue does and turns more vibrant in the fall. It can reach 2-4’ tall and can spread to 2’ wide. It needs full sun and dry to medium soil. The blades have tones of blue, red, purple, and bronze on them. This makes it a perfect match for any disk-shaped solid-color flower. Make sure to give “The Blues” a little extra room so it can enjoy swaying in the fall breeze.

Panicum- “Northwind”. This grass definitely needs full sun, the more sun the better. When the sun shines on it or through it the grass seems to absolutely glow! It has a striking golden color like none other and is a must-have on my list. “Northwind” can reach 5-6’ tall and starts out a nice green color in the spring. It can spread up to 4’ and holds its upright shape all winter. Leave this and all grasses up all winter to provide cover for birds. It is drought tolerant, care free, and a rapid grower as well.

Physostegia variegata- variegated obedient plant. This plant works well in full sun to part shade. It is a strong vertical element that can reach 3’tall and 2’wide. It blooms soft pink in late summer, but the best show comes in late fall when the foliage cures to a pink-purple-rosy blend all the way up and down the stem. It is grown mainly for its variegated foliage but the bloom is pretty too. It attracts bees, birds, and butterflies. The flowers are actually sterile and don’t produce seed so the plant actually spreads by roots. It is dividable too, making it a great financial investment as well.

Phlox- “Becky Towe”. This is one of the best performers I’ve seen for late season interest. It is a full sun plant that is about 3-4’tall and 2’ wide. It has a gorgeous variegation throughout the growing season and then it blooms this massive coral-pink blossom late in the season. It is more resistant to powdery mildew than most phlox. I have several in my garden paired with Russian sage and the soft yellow “Happy Returns” daylily. It is a very romantic pastel blend in my border garden.

Yucca- “Bright Edge”. Commonly called Adam’s Needle, it is definitely a stand alone plant in the garden. I like this one because the variegation is strong and lasts forever. It can average about 2’ by 2’ when mature and the flower stalk stands high above the foliage and holds creamy white bell-shaped flowers. It can take a few years before it is ready to bloom, so be patient.

That’s the first half of my plant recommendations to add late fall interest to your garden. Remember, it’s alright to leave plants, especially grasses, standing all winter to provide cover for wildlife and structure in your winter landscape. It should be just as interesting to watch your garden during wintertime as it is in the summer months.

Beyond Mums and Asters, Late Fall Interest in Your Garden, Part 2

By Dawn Rae Jones, Retail Manager, Bloch’s Farm

Late fall and winter in the garden can be a little humdrum once the mums and asters are done blooming. There are some other plants that you should consider adding to enhance your garden during the end of the planting season. Here is the remainder of my list of recommendations to help you along:

Miscanthus sinensis- “Graziella”. This grass also goes by the common name of “Eulalia”. It requires totally full sun and lots of room because it can easily reach 5’-6’ tall and can spread greatly by rhizomes. (If you don’t want this grass to travel, plant it into a large pot with drainage holes or remove the bottom of the pot and bury the whole pot in the ground. This will help contain it.) The seed heads form white plumes that are simply beautiful as they sway in the breeze. Keep this grass up all winter because it looks soft and peaceful covered with snow. You’ll enjoy this one all year!

Tricyrtis- “Samurai”. Here’s a great shade-loving plant. “Samurai” can get about 1’-1 ½’ tall and wide. It has interesting foliage-green leaves edged in gold. It blooms out in late fall with a flower that looks just like a miniature orchid. It is best enjoyed close up because the blossoms are small, so plant it somewhere that you might walk past it frequently. The “Samurai” does best in partial shade with rich, well-drained soil. Good companions might be the delicate epimedium or maidenhair fern. For greater textural interest, pair it with something stronger like a Blue Angel hosta.

Cimicifuga- “White Pearl”. For a great fall show in your garden, “White Pearl” is a must-have plant. Standing up to 4’tall and spanning 2 1/2’ wide when mature and planted in masses along the back of your shade bed, it can’t help but draw your attention. It’s even better in front of a dark background like brown siding, because when it blooms in late summer through fall, the stalks of blossoms look like strings of white pearls, literally. It can stand to be divided but will take a couple of years to bounce back afterwards. It is fragrant and deer resistant as well.

Cimicifuga- “Pink Spike”. This is a cousin to the “White Pearl” and another must have in the shade garden. “Pink Spike” will reach a height of 5’ tall and about 2 ½’ wide. Again, best planted in a large grouping for biggest impact, “Pink Spike” will thrive in shade and rich, well-drained soil. Because of its brownish foliage, it pairs really well with Heuchera (coral bells) “Amber Waves”.

Sedum- “Voodoo”. This is a full sun spectacular perennial! “Voodoo” adds so much color to your garden throughout the year but in the fall it is truly amazing as it puts out displays of bright rose-red blossoms and more intense mahogany foliage. “Voodoo” pairs very well with blue tones and it also works equally well with plants that are more chartreuse or yellow. It acts as a go-between or a neutral. It reaches only 6” tall and spreads easily, even in rock mulch.

Helenium autumnale- “Helen’s flower”, “Dog–toothed daisy”, “Sneezeweed”. This is a native to our area. It is slow to start out, but once it gets going it can easily reach 4’-6’ tall and needs spacing of at least 4’ apart. It is a long blooming perennial and pairs well with other perennials that have strong color tones like ironweed or purple coneflower. Handling heleniums may cause skin irritation so be careful and wear gloves. There are several hybridized heleniums that are hot color variations as well. They all require thorough watering and good drainage. They attract bees, birds, and butterflies. Leave their seed heads up all winter for visual interest as well.

Rudbeckia triloba- “Brown-eyed Susan”. This is a short-lived biennial (blooms every other year) but well worth adding to your fall garden. Rudbeckia triloba goes by several common names like branched coneflower and thin-leaved coneflower. It is taller than the common Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta. It flowers later in the season and has smaller flowers than the hirta variety. Brown-eyed Susan flowers profusely from late summer until a killing frost. It is loaded with blossoms all over the plant and will sometimes fall right over if not supported by its neighbors or some type of cage. Since it has such a strong color, it pairs really well with other strong colors, such as “Blue Butterfly” or “Blue Mirror” delphinium or a darker Echinacea like “Ruby Star”, “Mars”, or “Vintage Wine”. It also stands out when paired with ironweed and naturalizes well with Culver’s root and Liatris. It’s a must-have in any naturalized planting and gives you a lot of color in the late fall display. Leave the seed heads up on this one to add winter interest.

Bouteloua curtipendula- “Sideoats Grama” This native grass can range from 1 ½’ to 3’ tall and has a purplish cast to it in the spring. In the fall it cures to a reddish brown straw color. The oats form like the teeth of a comb, lining up along one side of the seed stalk. The oats are lovely as they glisten a purple tinged with orange in August through September. It needs full sun to thrive and prefers dry to medium soil. It can pair well with Joe Pye, Wild Petunia or Stiff Coreopsis.

Tricyrtis-“Lightning Strike”. This is a cutie for the part to full shade garden. It grows to be about 2’tall and 1 ½’ wide. The orchid-like blossoms appear in the very late fall and are a striking violet-lavender-white spotted petal. You will enjoy variegated foliage all season as well. The flowers are sterile and don’t produce any seeds so if you want to propagate this plant you need to do it by division of the root ball. Plant this tricyrtis close by a walking trail so you can enjoy the small blossoms as you pass by it. It is one of the very last bloomers of the year in our area.

With these suggested plants added to our gardens for next fall and kept throughout the winter, we will enjoy our gardens year around. We’ll actually look forward to enjoying our gardens during the long, cold winter-hopefully from inside, tucked under a comfy afghan, with a cup of hot chocolate in hand! See you at Bloch’s Farm in the spring! We will open on or around April 15^th!

More Creative Deer-Proofing Methods by Dawn Jones, Retail Manager, Bloch’s Farm

We all have concerns about our hard work in our gardens being ravaged by deer. I’ve compiled a list of some of the more effective methods of deer-proofing I have heard lately. Keep in mind that deer will eat almost anything if they get hungry enough. I’ve even had a customer at the Farm tell me about deer munching away on her plastic flowers in her containers! But try some of these suggestions. It is bound to help, at least to some extent.

First and foremost, the most proactive thing you can do is to choose to plant deer-resistant plants. Use plants that have thorns, fuzzy or leathery leaves, or a strong odor or taste. If the majority of plants in your garden are distasteful to the deer, their visits to your domain will be less frequent and the damage will be minimized. Use the internet or the experts at Bloch’s Farm to provide you with a list of deer-resistant plants that are good for your zone and center your gardening efforts around those plants.

Deer can jump a six-foot fence with ease and it takes little effort to knock over a cage surrounding a small tree to enjoy a good rub. Make your landscape as unappealing to the deer population as possible by limiting the types of plant material they favor.

In the man versus deer contest, many weapons have been tried, some more creative than others. Some folks use shaved Irish spring soap, human hair, cayenne pepper, bone meal products, petrified egg mixtures, coyote urine, motion-sensing water sprayers or lights, leaving radios on in the garden, and dogs trained to bark at deer all have had measured success.

One new method is to selectively allow or enable deer to eat certain plants. One idea is to ring your entire vegetable garden with ‘Osaka’ kale, an ornamental variety. The idea here is that the deer will eat the kale, get full, and leave the other plants in your garden alone. Along that same line of thinking, is to provide leaf piles or plantings of clover and calendula at the edges of your property to provide grazing areas for the deer. Hopefully if deer are allowed to freely eat at the borders of your property, they won’t venture further in toward your planted beds.

Taking more frequent walks through your gardens, either alone or with your dog, and touching or brushing up against plants and shrubs to leave your scent may act as a deterrent as well. I’ve also heard of people leaving out well-worn flannel shirts or gloves, hoping the scent of a human would be an effective deterrent.

One very easy method of deterring deer is using monofilament fishing line to “wrap” your garden. Place fence posts at each corner and make yourself an entry gate as well. Run several level lines of monofilament fishing line around the entire circumference of the garden. The way it works is the deer can’t see the fishing line and when it brushes up against their fur and doesn’t yield, they are deterred from going any further.

There are hundreds of products available to fend off deer. The most effective one I have ever used is called Green Screen. It is available in 2 forms: a powder form that you sprinkle on the ground around your plants and in small cheesecloth bags that can be tied right onto your trees and shrubs. We suggest hanging these bags at about a 3’ height as that is the common grazing elevation for deer. Using both methods at the same time gives double the coverage. It has to be reapplied after several rains but it quite effective. We sell Green Screen at the Farm and although we are closed for the season in retail, you may call us at 920-294-6000 and we will be sure to make this product available to you throughout the winter.

I would suggest that whatever method you use, change it up every so often. Even the most wary deer will realize that a playing radio won’t hurt them or that a certain scent being present in the garden is simply the way it always smells there and nothing bad will happen if they nibble away at your plants. Be in your garden frequently, even at night, and try many different methods to deter the deer. Be aggressive and consistent in your attempts and you will come out ahead of the herd! Good Luck!

The Landscaping Puzzle

(Grower Talk)

By: Melissa Netzer

Landscape Designer

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

GROWER TALK

Provided by: Ashley Henke, Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake WI

Q: I’m going to till a new area for a Vegetable Garden. What kind of fertilizer should I use?

A: Before doing anything to the soil, you will need to do a soil test. Your local university extension office offers this service. This can tell you the kind and quantity of nutrients that you will need to add the soil. It will also tell you the soil’s condition and how to improve it.

In general you can’t go wrong by adding organic matter to your soil. Also add as much aged compost, well-rotted manure, peat moss, and herbicide-free grass clippings as possible and adding more through out the season as needed.

Vegetables prefer a pH of 6.5-7. Once you get your soil test results, adjust the pH for great tasting vegetables that you will be eating all summer long.

After you have planted your vegetable garden, there are numerous fertilizers that you can use to help grow your vegetables. One that I recommend is a slow release fertilizer, called Osmocote. This can be applied directly to the soil and lasts at least 4 months. Always wash your vegetables before washing when using any type of fertilizer.

Bloch’s Farm is getting ready for the Spring Season. We will be opening on April 15^th, Stop in and get all of your Vegetable gardening supplies. NEW this year, we will be carrying vegetable and herb seeds, “The Cook’s Garden” variety. Each packet of seed provides a unique recipe to try. See you on April 15^th!

ashley@blochsfarm.com or 920.294.6000

EARTH DAY IS APRIL 22

By: Ashley Henke,

Head Horticulturalist/Grower

Earth Day inspires environmental awareness and Earth appreciation. The Earth Day that we celebrate is on April 22. Senator Gaylord Nelson started Earth Day in 1970 to create this awareness of the earth to local communities, along with schools, youth groups, as well as college campuses. There are many things that a person can do to support earth day. For instance you could start using reusable shopping bags, or you can plant a tree to help preserve the earth’s air supply. Start taking shorter showers to save water. Replace all old light bulbs with energy efficient light bulbs. Pay bills online to save paper and money. Ride a bike to work or carpool with your neighbors. Start recycling and tell your friends to recycle. Buy locally grown vegetables at area farm markets, Bloch’s Farm is now featuring a seasonal farmers market with fresh locally grown produce, May- October.

There are many things to do to honor our earth on Earth Day. Here at Bloch’s Farm we are giving away free trees. When you come into Bloch’s Farm and purchase $100 worth of merchandise, gifts or plants, you will receive a free native tree. Plant this tree in honor of Earth Day and do your part to make the earth one step closer to GREEN. We are working with some area schools to install a large community garden. The general public will also be able to rent plots so check out our website for updates on this wonderful project.

FOR EVERY $100 Purchase at Bloch’s Farm; Receive a

FREE Native Tree* in honor of EARTH DAY.

*1 gallon size, many varieties to choose from, effective April 18^th – April 30^th

Any questions or comments, please email ashley@blochsfarm.com and be sure check out our website; www.blochsfarm.com for a schedule of events and unadvertised specials.

Is it Necessary to Mulch my Garden?

By: Ashley Henke, Head Horticulturalist,

Bloch’s Farm, Green Lake, WI

Check out our website for our schedule of events and unadvertised sales www.blochsfarm.com or tweet us at Bloch’s Farm on Twitter or Bloch’s Farm on Facebook. Join us this Saturday, May 16th at 10 am for a seminar by Horticulturalist, Marie Murphy, on “Sustainability, Landscaping with a Conscious”. This seminar will demonstrate how to incorporate sustainable landscape practices into your yard and garden. A good indicator of sustainability in landscape plantings is when you can look back and say ‘This project left the environment in better shape then I found it!’ Please call ahead for a space. 920-294-6000